黎貴諾 Jasper LAI

我叫黎貴諾,我家在青衣。我外公外婆都住在馬灣。我們家族第一個踏入馬灣的人是我太公。那時候他認為馬灣是一個很合適落地生根的地方。所以他就用他行船賺的錢去買地蓋樓,再接子女到馬灣生活,其中一個就是我外公。我外公外婆有八個子女,全部都是在馬灣長大的,而我媽媽更於馬灣的芳園書室唸小學,也在馬灣上教堂,到他們長大、成家立室後才離開馬灣。直到現在,每一個星期日我都會跟媽媽回馬灣。

馬灣原名媽灣,得名於媽祖,即天后娘娘。當地鄉民多稱天后廟為「娘媽廟」,更將「娘媽」讀作「娘馬」,為表示尊敬「娘馬」,遂將島名改為「馬灣」。每逢天后誕,馬灣居民都會做大戲,整條馬灣大街都會變得人來人住,十分熱鬧。那大戲棚正正對著我家大門。我最記得有一年,我們在家門口擺檔,賣燒賣、魚旦和飲品。不過當時我還小,所以幫忙吃比幫忙賣還要多。還有,我外婆常常跟我說,每一天的第一場戲都不是做給人看的!所以我都會很早起床去把家裏門窗關上,窗簾拉上。不過在2002年,位於東灣附近的私人住宅區珀麗灣入伙,原居民就被迫搬遷,搬到珀麗灣附近政府為安置原居村民而建的新村。而舊村「馬灣大街村」的房屋則被封鎖,亦開始逐漸被人遺忘。我們家亦一樣被迫搬到一堆密密麻麻的棕色小屋,烈日當空下,屋與屋之間沒有半棵樹。在這條新村裏,我們只是住著,談不上生活。我們被搬後,那個很熟悉的大戲棚就變得離我們很遠,以前熱鬧的日子也慢慢被遺忘了。

被遺忘的地方其實還有很多。馬灣有一個地方叫東灣,是一個石灘,只有石,很少沙。小時候我會穿著一對大兩三個碼的人字拖,去翻開大大小小的石頭,抓些不同的生物,我媽媽說以前還有海膽和生蠔!每當我玩得興起的時候,總會不小心掉一隻人字拖下水,而我就只好站在岸邊看著鞋子漂走。不過東灣石灘現在已經變成沙灘了,私人住宅區珀麗灣入伙後,地產商就在石灘上蓋上了沙,令石灘變成沙灘,可能他們想要一個人造沙灘,也不想要一個天然石灘吧。但是,他們不只覆蓋了石和下面的生物,還覆蓋了發現重要歷史文物的地方。1997年6月至11月,考古隊在馬灣東灣北面發現了於珠江三角洲地區、新石器時代中晚期至青銅器時代早期的二十座墓葬、居住遺跡及豐富的文化遺物,對研究香港和嶺南地區的史前文化,提供了極寶貴的資料。地產商不想讓這些古蹟阻礙興建私人樓宇和豪宅的計劃,就在山上建一個被木板圍住的小屋,把那些遺物放進去,就當是保育了。除了石器時代的歷史古蹟,馬灣還有很多古蹟被人遺忘,例如被評「三級歷史建築物」的九龍關石碑、「美經援村」、三亭攬秀中的「三亭」、麒麟石、鎮流碑、「梅蔚」石塊、無葉井……馬灣是一個有很多歷史痕跡的地方,其實可以成為一個保育歷史文化的公園的,不過取而代之的是私人樓宇、豪宅和那隻塑膠造的挪亞方舟和上面的塑膠動物。

馬灣有另一個地方我經常去,就是我和幾個朋友的秘密基地。我們秘密基地的前身其實就是芳園書室,書室停辦後就荒廢了,無人理會,旁邊有一棵早已倒下的大榕樹,現在已經變成大蟻巢。我們會在山上找不同的武器,然後在秘密基地集合再出發,向大蟻巢發動總攻擊!最後因為我們穿著人字拖,所以腳趾抵受不了強烈反攻而撤退。

被遺忘的事真的很多,不過有一件事就很難忘。住在馬灣舊村時我們家養過一隻貓,是我表弟養的,他還幫牠起名為「阿貓」。「阿貓」很好的,不時幫我們趕絕害蟲,保護家園,「阿貓」心情好的時候還會找一些老鼠蟑螂給我們送禮。不過有一次,我們在後園看到一條死蛇,而我們又找不到「阿貓」。外婆說那條蛇有毒,可能「阿貓」跟蛇大打出手時不小心給咬了,中了毒,所以自己找路上山等死。自此之後我們就再沒有見過「阿貓」了,但是其實我也開始不記得「阿貓」到底是黑色還是白色。

I am Jasper Lai. I live in Tsing Yi. My grandparents live in Ma Wan and raised their 7 children there.

Ma Wan was named after Mazu (媽祖). Every year on the 23rd of the third month of the Lunar calendar, residents of Ma Wan would perform Cantonese operas and Ma Wan Main Street would be full of people. My family lived on the opposite side of the bamboo theatre. We even ran a snack stall once. In 2002, the private housing estate Park Island was built around Tung Wan therefore we were forced to move to Ma Wan Sun Tsuen. The bamboo theatre became so far away and gradually forgotten since then.

Another forgotten place is the shingle beach Tung Wan. I used to dig into the stones and catch animals in my unfitted slippers. But after the completion of Park Island, the property developer not only covered the shingle beach, but also a historic event with sands. In 1997, an archaeological team found some rich cultural relics in Tung Wan Tsai North. The discovery included 20 burials and the remains of habitation from the Pearl River Delta date from the Middle and Late Neolithic to the early Bronze Age. Those materials are now put in a small house surrounded by fences. Apart from them, there are many forgotten historic sites in Ma Wan. For example, the “Kowloon Gate” monument, Care Village, “Mui Wai” and A Well without Fallen Leaves. Ma Wan is a place full if history. But what you can see now is just the private housing estates, luxury development and the plastic Noah’s Ark and animals.

My friends and I had a secret base – Fong Yuen Study Hall. It is an abandoned school next to a fallen banyan. The banyan became an ant’s nest. We used to look for different kinds of weapons and attack the nest! But we could only flee in panic as we left our toes bare in slippers.

But there is one thing unforgettable. My cousin had a cat called Catty. Catty was very nice. He kept us away from harmful insects and gave us rats and cockroaches as gifts. One day we saw a dead snake in the backyard and Catty was missing. He has disappeared since the day. Was Catty black or white?

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藝術家